The best Portugal’s premier arts festival has to offer

AS Edinburgh prepares itself for the world’s biggest arts jamboree in August, Europe’s summer festival season is already underway. Portugal’s premier performing arts programme, Festival de Almada (FdA), is particularly noteworthy.

in The National 16 Julho 2023 | notícia online

Presented in the small city of Almada, which sits on the south bank of the River Tagus, and across that great tributary in Portugal’s beautiful capital city of Lisbon, the festival is currently celebrating its 40th edition.

FdA was established by the late, great theatre director Joaquim Benite, after whom Almada’s handsome, modern playhouse, Teatro Municipal Joaquim Benite (TMJB), is now named.

Since Benite’s passing in 2012, his festival has continued under the leadership of his longstanding assistant director Rodrigo Francisco (who also assumed, upon Benite’s death, the directorship of the Almada Theatre Company).

Francisco deserves immense credit, not only for maintaining the quality and openness of the festival’s programme of Portuguese and international work, but also for the calm and confident manner in which he led FdA through the Covid pandemic.

The high international standing of the Almada festival is evinced by the kind of artists who continue to present work here.

On Wednesday night, for example, the festival audience had the opportunity to enjoy a production of Harold Pinter’s iconic 1957 play The Birthday Party (below), presented by Tieffe Theatre of Milan, and directed by the celebrated theatre director Peter Stein.

The German director’s work is highly sought after all over the world. Many in the Edinburgh International Festival audience will remember warmly his premiere production of Scottish dramatist David Harrower’s superb play Blackbird back in 2005.

Interestingly, there is a distinctly Pinteresque dimension to Harrower’s play, in terms of its strained human relations and the powerful implications of how someone sits, stands or moves in a room. It is little surprise that Stein was attracted to Harrower’s work, or that he is returning now to one of Pinter’s early plays.

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